Le Petit Cafe, Branford, CT

Today is our wedding anniversary, so last night we had dinner at our favorite spot hereabouts, Le Petit Cafe in Branford, Connecticut. This isn’t a proper review in the sense of being an objective assessment, but rather my way of recommending one of the finest restaurants in the greater New Haven area and one of the best bargains in fine dining anywhere. I’m biased — this is one of our prime “go-to” places when we’re in a mood to celebrate.

Le Petit Cafe is a restaurant in the style of a French bistro. Small and warmly decorated, it sits right off Main Street and its tiny front windows look out onto the town green. The menu is prix fixe, and currently stands at $48.50 per person for four courses, which is more than reasonable given the superb quality of the food.

When you arrive, the table, crisply set in white, is set with two small dishes, one of roasted beets and the other of olives marinated in cumin and garlic. The crusty bread which arrives soon after is house-made, warm, and served with truffle butter. The waitstaff, friendly and attentive, is well-versed in the menu. The wine list is small and affordable. The menu changes often. There are usually six appetizers, including a soup du jour, to choose from. The appetizer course is followed by a salad of organic mesclun greens simply dressed with a vinaigrette and topped with an artisanal cheese. There are six entrees to choose from, and then a dessert course. All of the desserts are made on the premises.

While the menu reflects the chef’s French training, the food is inventive yet comforting, as befits a bistro. The ingredients are always of the freshest quality, and the portions are reasonable, which makes it possible to finish what’s on the plate most of the time.

Last night I ordered the soup of the day, which was an incredible gazpacho garnished with lumps of fresh crabmeat and slices of avocado. Jim ordered the country pate with brandied cherries, served with cornichons, spiced shallot chutney, and Dijon mustard. For my entree I chose a chicken dish. The description from the menu: Roasted organic chicken breast layered with organic baby crimini mushrooms Duxelles and jambon de Bayonne, served with Spanish chorizo & jumbo asparagus ragu and lemon-thyme sauce. Jim chose the miso-glazed Chilean sea bass served with broccoli rabe and garlic confit.

For dessert, we both chose the passion fruit creme brulee. The passion fruit lent a welcome touch of freshness and acidity to the richness of the custard and the sweetness of the burnt sugar topping. The meal is paced well, which is to say that the pace is leisurely. Expect to spend a full two hours at the table without feeling rushed. The room is small enough that conversation is easy, and Chef Roy Ip circulates among the diners during the course of the evening to greet guests and make sure that everyone’s happy.

If you’re looking for a fine dining experience that won’t require you to take out a second mortgage, I can’t recommend Le Petit Cafe highly enough. You’ll feel welcome, you’ll have a memorable meal, and I can guarantee you’ll want to come back again. There are two seatings on the weekends (Friday and Saturday), at 6:00 and 8:30, and reservations are recommended.


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