1. Nellie Green’s, Branford, CT

    I blame The Lobster Shack.

    The presence of The Cupcake Truck made the Lobster Shack pretty crowded last weekend, and Jim had to go park the car way out in back, by the marina. When he got back from parking, he mentioned that Nellie Green’s was back there. I think I knew this somewhere in the back of my mind, but it’s such an off-the-beaten-path location that I never really gave it much thought. And unless you’re on a boat, the place is completely hidden from view, so out of sight, out of mind, I guess.

    A little background: Nellie Green was a rum-runner of some repute during the days of Prohibition. The original Nellie Green’s was an historic tavern right on the Branford/East Haven town line, right on the river (and apparently the bootleggers used to load up their boats right underneath the building). The building was pretty dilapidated and has since (unfortunately) been turned into condos. This incarnation of Nellie Green’s is apparently unrelated save for the name.

    Anyway, we decided to give it a try in the interest of a) adding to our list of places, and b) supporting local businesses. Saturday was absurdly hot and humid, but by the time we headed out for dinner at 8:00, the darkness was imparting a bit of coolness to the evening, so we opted, when given the choice, to eat out on their beautiful deck, which sits right on the Branford River. It turned out to be the right choice. Our dinner was accompanied by a jazz duo (guitar and saxophone) and the stars came out, so the atmosphere was just about perfect.

    We started out by sharing a bowl of clam chowder (quite tasty) and a dozen very fresh clams on the half-shell (accompanied by three different sauces). They also brought us a basket of warm bread and a dish of deliciously flavored olive oil (and offered to bring butter if we preferred; we did not). Jim ordered grilled swordfish for his entree and I opted for the plank-roasted salmon. Both entrees were fantastic. The swordfish was topped with a delicious salsa. The salmon was accompanied by a risotto with roasted corn and peas, and both came with a side of fresh green beans.

    For dessert, Jim ordered the ice cream “sandwich” (which wasn’t really a sandwich at all, but was topped with chocolate cookie crumbs) and I got the amaretto creme brulee.

    While dinner wasn’t cheap (our total bill came to $110), neither was it exorbitant given the quality of the food. That’s with two appetizers, two entrees, two desserts, three beers, and a coffee. Nope, not bad by shoreline standards, and the food was very good. The service is friendly. The ambience is unbeatable. We will very likely go back soon.


  2. Cuckoo’s Nest Not a Destination Any More

    Last night we went out for a planned dinner. We had decided to try Cuckoo’s Nest in Old Saybrook, a spot that fairly consistently wins “Best Mexican Restaurant” honors in various polls. While I was getting ready to go out we had a late-day thunderstorm, but the weather cleared by the time we were ready to leave the house and we went out in the M3 for a top-down drive down the Boston Post Road, along the shoreline, a really pleasant excursion after a hot, muggy day.

    The restaurant wasn’t particularly crowded (but the hostess took our name, as if there might be a wait for a table –but we were seated instantly) and the decor is very casual. Our waiter was pleasant and greeted us promptly and took our drink orders. I had the house sangria (which is apparently “famous” for reasons that escape me) and Jim ordered a Negra Modelo. There was a basket of decent tortilla chips on the table and a small dish of good (and spicy) salsa.

    For a supposedly Mexican restaurant, the menu at Cuckoo’s Nest is a tad confusing. They offer up a selection of Cajun and Creole dishes as well as some very standard Tex-Mex fare. This is certainly a case of doing too many things to do any of them particularly well. For an appetizer, we ordered the Cajun popcorn shrimp. We got a very decent-sized basket of small shrimp served with a spicy dipping sauce, heavy on the hot sauce. They were good — the breading was light, the frying tasted clean, and they were crisp and not greasy. They probably didn’t need to be served on a bed of lettuce.

    Salad came next and wasn’t very exciting — a mixture of boring lettuces (most of which was iceberg, the cardinal sin of salad) topped with a few chick peas and a small slice of tomato. The dressings tasted bottled.

    My entree was off the specials menu; I ordered a crab, shrimp and spinach quesadilla. The quesadilla itself was okay, but nothing to write home about. The unremarkable tortilla was largely at fault here — it did nothing to enhance the filling. I’m also accustomed to seeing some cooking or grill marks on a quesadilla — this one just looked as if it had been pressed flat. The accompanying rice was dry. The small serving of pineapple salsa that accompanied the dish was good, and just the right combination of sweet and spicy. The colors — all orangey-beige — made for a fairly bland presentation. Jim ordered the chicken enchiladas mole, which looked like a better choice. I’m going to reserve judgment until I’ve had a chance to taste the leftovers.

    We drove home the same way we came and got a glimpse of the Madison fireworks on the way back, and I leaned my head back and watched the moon and the stars go by. It was a great excuse for a ride, and I think we’ll head out to Old Saybrook for dinner again. I just think we’ll pick a better restaurant. For Mexican, we’ll stick to Jalapeno Heaven or Baja’s, both closer to home, both serving way better food.


  3. Le Petit Cafe, Branford, CT

    Today is our wedding anniversary, so last night we had dinner at our favorite spot hereabouts, Le Petit Cafe in Branford, Connecticut. This isn’t a proper review in the sense of being an objective assessment, but rather my way of recommending one of the finest restaurants in the greater New Haven area and one of the best bargains in fine dining anywhere. I’m biased — this is one of our prime “go-to” places when we’re in a mood to celebrate.

    Le Petit Cafe is a restaurant in the style of a French bistro. Small and warmly decorated, it sits right off Main Street and its tiny front windows look out onto the town green. The menu is prix fixe, and currently stands at $48.50 per person for four courses, which is more than reasonable given the superb quality of the food.

    When you arrive, the table, crisply set in white, is set with two small dishes, one of roasted beets and the other of olives marinated in cumin and garlic. The crusty bread which arrives soon after is house-made, warm, and served with truffle butter. The waitstaff, friendly and attentive, is well-versed in the menu. The wine list is small and affordable. The menu changes often. There are usually six appetizers, including a soup du jour, to choose from. The appetizer course is followed by a salad of organic mesclun greens simply dressed with a vinaigrette and topped with an artisanal cheese. There are six entrees to choose from, and then a dessert course. All of the desserts are made on the premises.

    While the menu reflects the chef’s French training, the food is inventive yet comforting, as befits a bistro. The ingredients are always of the freshest quality, and the portions are reasonable, which makes it possible to finish what’s on the plate most of the time.

    Last night I ordered the soup of the day, which was an incredible gazpacho garnished with lumps of fresh crabmeat and slices of avocado. Jim ordered the country pate with brandied cherries, served with cornichons, spiced shallot chutney, and Dijon mustard. For my entree I chose a chicken dish. The description from the menu: Roasted organic chicken breast layered with organic baby crimini mushrooms Duxelles and jambon de Bayonne, served with Spanish chorizo & jumbo asparagus ragu and lemon-thyme sauce. Jim chose the miso-glazed Chilean sea bass served with broccoli rabe and garlic confit.

    For dessert, we both chose the passion fruit creme brulee. The passion fruit lent a welcome touch of freshness and acidity to the richness of the custard and the sweetness of the burnt sugar topping. The meal is paced well, which is to say that the pace is leisurely. Expect to spend a full two hours at the table without feeling rushed. The room is small enough that conversation is easy, and Chef Roy Ip circulates among the diners during the course of the evening to greet guests and make sure that everyone’s happy.

    If you’re looking for a fine dining experience that won’t require you to take out a second mortgage, I can’t recommend Le Petit Cafe highly enough. You’ll feel welcome, you’ll have a memorable meal, and I can guarantee you’ll want to come back again. There are two seatings on the weekends (Friday and Saturday), at 6:00 and 8:30, and reservations are recommended.